During our second day in Buenos Aires we went for a walk from Palermo (where we were staying) to La Boca - the colourful neighbourhood that breathes tango. This is the day we walked for 23km around the city. And thanks to its beauty it felt really like a lovely walk.
On our way we passed (again) on Microcentro and further South on San Telmo. Here we stopped for a visit at El Zanjón de Granados - a unique urban architecture site of old brick tunnels labyrinth, sewers and cisterns, built from 1730 onwards. Constructed above a river tributary, later became a family mansion and then a tenement housing with shops. A visit is only possible with a guided tour, which is available in English and Spanish (by the time we were there the time schedule of the guides was as follows:
English - Monday-Friday at 12, 2 p.m., 3 p.m.;
Spanish - Monday-Friday 1 p.m.;
Sundays both English and Spanish from 11 to 6 p.m.)
Continuing South from San Telmo La Boca is relatively close. We knew we were almost there when saw La Bonbonera stadium. Already in front of the stadium, we continued on the old railway track (another option is to go on the parallel street, left of the track) and very soon we got to see the colourful houses La Boca is so known for.
As the neighbourhood is located at the shore of Riachuelo river, historically, most of its inhabitants (spanish and italian immigrants who arrived to Argentina in mid-19th century) were working in meat-packing plants and warehouses, processing or shipping out Argentina's vital beef. This is how they got access to the leftover paint they splashed on the corrugated-metal sidings of their own houses, and gave La Boca its uniqueness.
Near the Southern edge of the neighbourhood is El Caminito - its most famous street. However, nowadays the tourist fever has spread and there are souvenir shops and restaurant with tango dancers all around. Yes, it is super touristic and the prices are a bit higher, but having lunch in between the atmosphere of La Boca is worth it, so I recommend it.
Even though the riverside view is more industrial than a romantic one, there is a cool colourful pedestrian walkway that deserves attention.
After a quick Uber drive we got to the South tip of Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur at Puerto Madero neighbourhood. This ecological reserve is quite big to be visited on foot - in total 350 hectares, and we didn't find where to rent bicycles. Instead we just walked at Av. Tristán Achaval Rodríguez. There were nice views to the forest and lakes and it is also kind of Argentina's Walk of Fame - there were statues of their most famous and beloved sportsmen.
Puerto Madero is probably the most recent of Buenos Aires' neighbourhoods. A former international port (built in 1898 but soon became short for the amount of cargo), nowadays it holds some of the most expensive real estates. It is a very nice place to have dinner or an afternoon drink.
As already at Puerto Madero don't miss to pass on Puente de la Mujer (Woman's Bridge). Designed by spanish architect Santiago Calatrava and unveiled in 2001, it is 160m long and has a 90 degrees implemented rotation to allow water traffic to pass.
Supposedly, its white structure represents a couple dancing tango. My imagination didn't go that way, so I was not able to see architect's vision, but I guess just like tango it is more about the feeling...
And I loved everything about Buenos Aires!